St. Kitts and Nevis (with text!)

Leaving St. Martin, we had a very nice sail down the east side of St. Martin, past St Barth’s on our port side and onto Saba.

Saba is a very rugged island that, like St. Maarten, is part of the Dutch Antilles and it is reputed to have great hiking and diving. Unfortunately, the island also has no protected harbours and no marinas that could house a boat like Bojangles. There is, however, a mooring field on the leeward (west) side of the island where one can moor and avoid the prevailing winds but still remain exposed to anything coming from the North, West, or South.

We picked up a mooring in about 200 feet of water beneath a towering 300 foot cliff and prepared to watch the sun go down and perhaps see the green flash as we had a clear view of the western horizon? (Not familiar with the green flash? Click here) Of course, just as the G&T’s are about to be stirred, the Dutch Coast Guard shows up and boards us for a ‘routine’ inspection. While the guys were very professional and only stayed 10 or so minutes, they caused us to miss the sunset and generally ruined our cocktail hour.

Things got worse after dark. The swell came up from the north. And while we remained protected from the east wind, the swell – which is ocean waves not related to local wind conditions – was able to roll on us directly. So you now have a situation where the bow points into the wind (east) as normal, but then the swell hits us beam on from the north. The resulting effect is that the boat rolls back and forth to the rhythm of the swell. This particular night, it was so bad that cupboard doors would fly open and dishes were falling out. Needless to say, no one slept much and poor Mitchell was even launched out of his upper bunk in the middle of the night.

When dawn broke, we all agreed to cancel our planned hike for the day and forget about Saba until some other time in the future. We slipped our mooring line and pointed the bow eastward to St. Kitts (St. Christopher) where hopefully we’d be able to get a decent night’s sleep.

By early afternoon, after about 5 hours of motoring into the light easterly breeze, we reached St. Kitts. After a brief stop to clear customs and immigration in Basse Terre (St. Kitts) we motored 8 miles down to Cockleshell Bay at the south end of the island where we once again met up with our friends on Safari Tu and Stolen Hour. After a good cocktail hour with them, we had a nice evening there which was free from any rolling – so a good night’s sleep was had by all.

The following day, along with Safari Tu and Stolen Hour, we sailed the short few miles over to Nevis where we would spend the next few days. Already there were our friends from Shining Time (whom we hadn’t seen since October in Hampton, VA) and Chasseur (whom we had seen a few days earlier in St. Maarten).

At Nevis, we had a fun, relaxed time. Over the course of a few days, we played on the beach, went to the local markets, and generally slowed down a little. Nevis is a small, quiet island and there isn’t a ton of things to do, so that’s what we did.

One notable exception though, was the hike up to the rainforest that starts from the Golden Rock Hotel. We hired a driver to deliver us to the hotel and then – after Colin spent 90 minutes on what was supposed to be a 20 minute conference call with a client – we began our hike up the mountain. Along the way, we saw the scenery was great with all kinds of cool plants and such. As we ascended, we also came across a family of young piglets in the wild and one wild monkey. After a couple of hours ascending, we were greeted by an opening with beautiful mountain views as well as the sea below and St. Kitts in the near distance.

While we could have continued along this path, we were getting peckish and knew that a tasty lunch awaited us back at the Golden Rock. We descended fairly quickly, disturbing only a herd of goats on the path, and returned to the hotel restaurant where we had pre-ordered our lunch. Frankly, I can’t remember what the others had, but I had a lobster salad sandwich with a salad and fries, accompanied by a glass of pinot grigio. It was outstanding. And, the setting was superlative. We were sitting on a stone terrace some 1000 feet above sea level looking out over the Atlantic Ocean. It was really neat, and if you ever get a chance to go to Nevis, lunch at Golden Rock is not to be missed.

After lunch, we had a nice chat with the hotel owner and then had a dip in the pool there to cool down. Then, as we prepared to meet our taxi to head back to the boat, Gillian discovered a monkey in the parking lot. Then, as we all got closer, we realized that there were monkeys everywhere – including in the tree above us throwing nuts and stuff down at us. While we’d all seen monkeys in the zoo and at African Lion Safari, this was the first time we’d seen them in the wild and it was pretty cool.

For our last day in St Kitts and Nevis, we went back to Nevis and arranged to have a private tour of the Carib brewery. I’m not sure that everyone appreciated it, but it’s always fun for me to see beer being made, and even if you’re not a beer drinker, watching a bottling line in action is pretty neat.

So, after our ill fated trip to Saba and a successful visit to St. Kitts and Nevis we decided to push on to Guadeloupe. We went to bed early, set our alarms for 0230 and prepared ourselves and Bojangles for the 80 mile run past Montserrat and beyond to Guadeloupe.


5 Responses to “St. Kitts and Nevis (with text!)”

  1. Dwight says:

    All of you are look good Bojangles. Patti and I got back from snow skiing with John and Cindy at Deer Valley Utah. In Dallas it snowed 8″ today. That’s a record. Keep up the Blog, I enjoy reading it.


  2. CHARLIE says:

    ████████►BUY CIALIS◀████████…


  3. TERRANCE says:


    Buygeneric meds…

  4. CHRISTIAN says:

    Buyno prescription…

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